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Arneis: The Little Rascal of Piedmont

If you are looking for a white wine that is crisp, floral, and full-bodied, you might want to try Arneis, a native grape variety from Piedmont, Italy. Arneis is also known as the “little rascal” because it is notoriously difficult to grow and vinify. But don’t let that scare you away. Arneis wines are worth the trouble, as they offer a unique and delicious expression of the Piedmont terroir.

The History of Arneis

Arneis has a long and fascinating history in Piedmont, dating back to at least the 15th century. However, its exact origin and name are uncertain. Some wine historians believe that Arneis may be the same grape as Ranaysii, which was documented in 1432 near Turin. Others suggest that Arneis is derived from the Piemontese word “renesi”, which means “resurrected”, referring to its revival in the 20th century.

For centuries, Arneis was mainly used as a blending partner for Nebbiolo, the famous red grape of Barolo and Barbaresco. Arneis was planted alongside Nebbiolo to attract birds and pests away from the more valuable red grapes. It was also added in small amounts to Nebbiolo wines to soften their tannins and add some aromatic complexity. This practice earned Arneis the nicknames of “Nebbiolo bianco” or “white Barolo”.

However, as Barolo producers started to focus on 100% varietal Nebbiolo wines, Arneis fell out of favor and almost faced extinction. By the 1970s, only two producers, Bruno Giacosa and Vietti, were still making Arneis wines. Thanks to their efforts and the growing interest in white Piedmont wines, Arneis experienced a renaissance in the 1980s and 1990s. Today, Arneis is one of the most popular and widely planted white grapes in Piedmont, with over 600 hectares of vineyards.

The Region of Arneis

Arneis is mostly grown in the Roero hills, northwest of Alba, where it is the star of the Roero DOCG appellation. Roero is a hilly area with sandy and calcareous soils, which give Arneis wines a distinctive minerality and freshness. Roero Arneis wines must be made from at least 95% Arneis grapes and have a minimum alcohol level of 11%. They can be dry, off-dry, or sweet, and some producers also make sparkling or late-harvest versions.

Arneis is also grown in the Langhe region, south of Alba, where it is part of the Langhe DOC appellation. Langhe is a more diverse and heterogeneous area, with different soils, altitudes, and microclimates. Langhe Arneis wines tend to be more fruity and round than Roero Arneis wines, and can also be blended with other white grapes, such as Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc.

Outside of Piedmont, Arneis is cultivated in other Italian regions, such as Liguria, Lombardy, and Sardinia, as well as in other countries, such as Australia, New Zealand, and the United States. However, these wines are usually labeled as varietal Arneis or with the name of the country or region of origin, rather than with a specific appellation.

The Taste of Arneis

Arneis wines are characterized by a pale straw color and a delicate bouquet of white flowers, citrus fruits, pears, apricots, and almonds. On the palate, they are dry, medium-to-full-bodied, and moderately acidic, with flavors of green and stone fruits, honey, and hazelnut. Arneis wines are best enjoyed young and fresh, as they tend to lose their aromas and acidity with age. They are also best served chilled, at around 10°C (50°F).

Arneis wines are versatile and food-friendly, as they can pair well with a variety of dishes. Some classic matches are seafood, salads, pasta, risotto, cheese, and white meat. Arneis wines can also complement spicy and exotic cuisines, such as Thai, Indian, or Moroccan. Alternatively, Arneis wines can be enjoyed on their own, as an aperitif or a refreshing sip.

The Conclusion

Arneis is a grape variety that deserves more attention and appreciation from wine lovers. It is a wine that reflects the history, culture, and terroir of Piedmont, a region that is famous for its red wines, but also produces some excellent whites. Arneis is a wine that is easy to drink, but also complex and intriguing. It is a wine that can surprise and delight you with its aromas, flavors, and personality. Arneis is a wine that is a little rascal, but also a little gem.