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When Cortese becomes Gavi

Cortese and Gavi: A Perfect Pairing from Piedmont

If you are looking for a refreshing and elegant white wine to enjoy with seafood, cheese, or light pasta dishes, you might want to try cortese and gavi. Cortese is a grape variety native to Piedmont, a region in northwest Italy famous for its red wines like Barolo and Barbera. Gavi is a wine made exclusively from cortese grapes grown in a specific area around the town of Gavi, near the Ligurian border.

What is cortese?

Cortese is a white grape variety that has been cultivated in Piedmont since the 17th century. It is known for its high acidity, low alcohol, and delicate aromas of citrus, apple, pear, and almond. Cortese is also resistant to diseases and adapts well to different soils and climates, making it a reliable and versatile grape for winemakers.

Cortese is mainly grown in the provinces of Alessandria and Asti, where it produces crisp and refreshing wines under various appellations, such as Cortese dell’Alto Monferrato DOC, Colli Tortonesi DOC, and Piemonte Cortese DOC. However, the most prestigious and renowned expression of cortese is Gavi, or Cortese di Gavi, which was awarded DOCG status in 19981.

What is Gavi?

Gavi, or Cortese di Gavi, is a DOCG appellation that covers still and sparkling white wines made from 100% cortese grapes grown in 13 communes in the province of Alessandria2. The name derives from Gavi, the main town in the production zone, and cortese, the grape variety. Wines that come from vineyards within the township of Gavi can also be labeled as Gavi di Gavi, indicating a higher quality and origin.

Gavi is considered one of the top-ranking Italian whites, and the jewel of Piedmont’s white wines. It is characterized by its bone-dry, flinty, and fresh style, with floral and fruity notes of white flowers, lemon, green apple, and honeydew. It also often shows hints of almonds on the finish, a typical trait of cortese. Gavi is a wine that reflects its terroir, influenced by the mineral-rich soils and the Mediterranean climate of the area.

Gavi can be produced in different styles, such as still, sparkling, or aged. The most common and traditional style is still, vinified and matured in stainless steel tanks to preserve the freshness and acidity of the grape. Some producers also use oak barrels to add complexity and richness to the wine. Sparkling versions, either spumante or frizzante, are also made, using either the Charmat or the traditional method. Aged versions, called riserva, must be aged for at least 12 months, of which six in the bottle3.

How to enjoy cortese and gavi?

Cortese and gavi are wines that are best enjoyed young, within two or three years of the vintage, to appreciate their freshness and fruitiness. They are also best served chilled, at around 8-10°C (46-50°F), in a tulip-shaped glass that enhances their aromas.

Cortese and gavi are excellent wines to pair with food, especially seafood, as their acidity and minerality complement the salinity and freshness of fish and shellfish. They also go well with cheese, especially fresh and soft ones, such as mozzarella, ricotta, or goat cheese. Light pasta dishes, such as pesto, carbonara, or primavera, are also good matches, as well as salads, chicken, and vegetable dishes.

Cortese and gavi are wines that can be enjoyed on any occasion, from a casual lunch to a formal dinner, from a picnic to a party. They are wines that can please any palate, with their balance, elegance, and versatility. If you want to discover the charm of Piedmont’s white wines, cortese and gavi are a perfect pairing to start with.

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Arneis: The Little Rascal of Piedmont

If you are looking for a white wine that is crisp, floral, and full-bodied, you might want to try Arneis, a native grape variety from Piedmont, Italy. Arneis is also known as the “little rascal” because it is notoriously difficult to grow and vinify. But don’t let that scare you away. Arneis wines are worth the trouble, as they offer a unique and delicious expression of the Piedmont terroir.

The History of Arneis

Arneis has a long and fascinating history in Piedmont, dating back to at least the 15th century. However, its exact origin and name are uncertain. Some wine historians believe that Arneis may be the same grape as Ranaysii, which was documented in 1432 near Turin. Others suggest that Arneis is derived from the Piemontese word “renesi”, which means “resurrected”, referring to its revival in the 20th century.

For centuries, Arneis was mainly used as a blending partner for Nebbiolo, the famous red grape of Barolo and Barbaresco. Arneis was planted alongside Nebbiolo to attract birds and pests away from the more valuable red grapes. It was also added in small amounts to Nebbiolo wines to soften their tannins and add some aromatic complexity. This practice earned Arneis the nicknames of “Nebbiolo bianco” or “white Barolo”.

However, as Barolo producers started to focus on 100% varietal Nebbiolo wines, Arneis fell out of favor and almost faced extinction. By the 1970s, only two producers, Bruno Giacosa and Vietti, were still making Arneis wines. Thanks to their efforts and the growing interest in white Piedmont wines, Arneis experienced a renaissance in the 1980s and 1990s. Today, Arneis is one of the most popular and widely planted white grapes in Piedmont, with over 600 hectares of vineyards.

The Region of Arneis

Arneis is mostly grown in the Roero hills, northwest of Alba, where it is the star of the Roero DOCG appellation. Roero is a hilly area with sandy and calcareous soils, which give Arneis wines a distinctive minerality and freshness. Roero Arneis wines must be made from at least 95% Arneis grapes and have a minimum alcohol level of 11%. They can be dry, off-dry, or sweet, and some producers also make sparkling or late-harvest versions.

Arneis is also grown in the Langhe region, south of Alba, where it is part of the Langhe DOC appellation. Langhe is a more diverse and heterogeneous area, with different soils, altitudes, and microclimates. Langhe Arneis wines tend to be more fruity and round than Roero Arneis wines, and can also be blended with other white grapes, such as Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc.

Outside of Piedmont, Arneis is cultivated in other Italian regions, such as Liguria, Lombardy, and Sardinia, as well as in other countries, such as Australia, New Zealand, and the United States. However, these wines are usually labeled as varietal Arneis or with the name of the country or region of origin, rather than with a specific appellation.

The Taste of Arneis

Arneis wines are characterized by a pale straw color and a delicate bouquet of white flowers, citrus fruits, pears, apricots, and almonds. On the palate, they are dry, medium-to-full-bodied, and moderately acidic, with flavors of green and stone fruits, honey, and hazelnut. Arneis wines are best enjoyed young and fresh, as they tend to lose their aromas and acidity with age. They are also best served chilled, at around 10°C (50°F).

Arneis wines are versatile and food-friendly, as they can pair well with a variety of dishes. Some classic matches are seafood, salads, pasta, risotto, cheese, and white meat. Arneis wines can also complement spicy and exotic cuisines, such as Thai, Indian, or Moroccan. Alternatively, Arneis wines can be enjoyed on their own, as an aperitif or a refreshing sip.

The Conclusion

Arneis is a grape variety that deserves more attention and appreciation from wine lovers. It is a wine that reflects the history, culture, and terroir of Piedmont, a region that is famous for its red wines, but also produces some excellent whites. Arneis is a wine that is easy to drink, but also complex and intriguing. It is a wine that can surprise and delight you with its aromas, flavors, and personality. Arneis is a wine that is a little rascal, but also a little gem.

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An evening at the Enoteca

Last week we were delighted to attend a dinner with Marenco wines at the Enoteca Regionale di Acqui. It is a quirky space filled with tavern style furniture, stone walls and wine making tools from another era.

The evening was busy and lively and exactly what one would expect while enjoying good wine food and company. The menu included funghi, and a torta salata a savory cake which is delicious.

We started our evening in wine bar CLo3
Wine art at CLo3 wine bar
Convivial evening with Marenco wines. Including Rosé white and red and a lovely passiti to finish.