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When Cortese becomes Gavi

Cortese and Gavi: A Perfect Pairing from Piedmont

If you are looking for a refreshing and elegant white wine to enjoy with seafood, cheese, or light pasta dishes, you might want to try cortese and gavi. Cortese is a grape variety native to Piedmont, a region in northwest Italy famous for its red wines like Barolo and Barbera. Gavi is a wine made exclusively from cortese grapes grown in a specific area around the town of Gavi, near the Ligurian border.

What is cortese?

Cortese is a white grape variety that has been cultivated in Piedmont since the 17th century. It is known for its high acidity, low alcohol, and delicate aromas of citrus, apple, pear, and almond. Cortese is also resistant to diseases and adapts well to different soils and climates, making it a reliable and versatile grape for winemakers.

Cortese is mainly grown in the provinces of Alessandria and Asti, where it produces crisp and refreshing wines under various appellations, such as Cortese dell’Alto Monferrato DOC, Colli Tortonesi DOC, and Piemonte Cortese DOC. However, the most prestigious and renowned expression of cortese is Gavi, or Cortese di Gavi, which was awarded DOCG status in 19981.

What is Gavi?

Gavi, or Cortese di Gavi, is a DOCG appellation that covers still and sparkling white wines made from 100% cortese grapes grown in 13 communes in the province of Alessandria2. The name derives from Gavi, the main town in the production zone, and cortese, the grape variety. Wines that come from vineyards within the township of Gavi can also be labeled as Gavi di Gavi, indicating a higher quality and origin.

Gavi is considered one of the top-ranking Italian whites, and the jewel of Piedmont’s white wines. It is characterized by its bone-dry, flinty, and fresh style, with floral and fruity notes of white flowers, lemon, green apple, and honeydew. It also often shows hints of almonds on the finish, a typical trait of cortese. Gavi is a wine that reflects its terroir, influenced by the mineral-rich soils and the Mediterranean climate of the area.

Gavi can be produced in different styles, such as still, sparkling, or aged. The most common and traditional style is still, vinified and matured in stainless steel tanks to preserve the freshness and acidity of the grape. Some producers also use oak barrels to add complexity and richness to the wine. Sparkling versions, either spumante or frizzante, are also made, using either the Charmat or the traditional method. Aged versions, called riserva, must be aged for at least 12 months, of which six in the bottle3.

How to enjoy cortese and gavi?

Cortese and gavi are wines that are best enjoyed young, within two or three years of the vintage, to appreciate their freshness and fruitiness. They are also best served chilled, at around 8-10°C (46-50°F), in a tulip-shaped glass that enhances their aromas.

Cortese and gavi are excellent wines to pair with food, especially seafood, as their acidity and minerality complement the salinity and freshness of fish and shellfish. They also go well with cheese, especially fresh and soft ones, such as mozzarella, ricotta, or goat cheese. Light pasta dishes, such as pesto, carbonara, or primavera, are also good matches, as well as salads, chicken, and vegetable dishes.

Cortese and gavi are wines that can be enjoyed on any occasion, from a casual lunch to a formal dinner, from a picnic to a party. They are wines that can please any palate, with their balance, elegance, and versatility. If you want to discover the charm of Piedmont’s white wines, cortese and gavi are a perfect pairing to start with.

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Brachetto, A sweet and Ancient tale.


Bracchetto Wine: A Sweet and Ancient Story

Have you ever heard of bracchetto wine? It is a red Italian wine that is produced in the Piedmont region, especially around Acqui Terme and Strevi. It is made from the bracchetto grape, a variety that is believed to be native to Piedmont, but some experts think it might have French origins. 12

Bracchetto wine has a long and fascinating history, dating back to the Roman times. According to legend, Julius Caesar and Marc Antony gave bracchetto wine to Cleopatra as a gift. The wine was called vinum acquense, which means “wine of the Acqui”. It was said to have sweet flavors and high aromatics, and to have the power to unleash the passions of its lovers3

Bracchetto wine is also known for its sparkling quality. In fact, it is one of the few wines in Italy that can be labeled as frizzante or spumante (fully sparkling). The sparkling version of bracchetto wine is similar to Lambrusco and Moscato d’Asti, but with more complexity and elegance. It has floral and fruity notes, such as strawberries, raspberries, cherries, and peaches12

Bracchetto wine is classified as a Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) since 1996 and previously as a Denominazione di Origine Controllata (DOC) since 1969. This means that it has strict rules on how it can be made, where it can come from, and what it can contain. For example, bracchetto wine must be made from 100% bracchetto grapes that were harvested at no more than 8 tonnes/hectare. It must also have an alcohol level of at least 5% for frizzante and 6% for spumante1

Bracchetto d’Acqui wine is a delicious and versatile drink that can be enjoyed on its own or paired with various dishes. Some suggestions are cheese platters, salads, desserts, seafood, poultry, pork dishes, or spicy foods. Bracchetto wine can also be used as an ingredient in cocktails or mocktails. It has a light ruby colour a fine perlage and taste that is distinctly floral and light, the aftertaste that lingers is that of almonds.

Acqui DOCG

Acqui DOCG summer aperitivo

Brachetto the grape today is also offered in a dry format. Gone is the sweetness, the alcohol content is higher and the result? Is a beautiful elegant a light rose cipriano colour with a beautiful perlage. The taste is still floral, aromatic and elegant without the sweetness. It pairs with light summer food or along as a perfect Aperitivo, more elegant and refined than the ever popular Prosecco.

Passito, after dinner

At the other end of the spectrum Bracchetto is also late harvested to produce passito. In fact as a cousin to Moscato it was originally left on the vines longer, then taken into large trays to mature and sweeten left in open air fro some weeks. This process is called “appassimento”.

There are different way to effect his process but here in Piemonte it is usually not on the vine but on large grates left in a covered but open environment over weeks (another way is to use thermoregulated rooms with fans) The effect of this was that the fruit would dry lowering the water content and increasing sugar concentration.A

After a few weeks, the grapes are then processed and vinified into wine and left to mature, some are aged for additional complexity.

The passito is a sweet after diiner wine that is both aromatic, fruity while full bodied and saatisfying. It is not heavy like port and maintains a lightness and floral notes.

I hope you enjoyed this blog post on the variety from just one humble bracchetto grape!

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Dolcetto the little sweet one. Spoiler alert it’s not sweet!

Piemonte is home to some big famous hard hitting wines and in all the fuss over Barolo and Barbaresco we can forget about the little Sweet one or little treat, translated literally Dolcetto.

Come Halloween kids will dance around saying Dolcetto scherzetto , trick or treat!

It is not sweet but it is a beautiful rich manifestation of the land where it grows; Piemonte is King for Dolcetto and no where else comes close! Again like Barbera, this is a grape not a wine. So you will find many different interpretations.

It is a warm friendly and welcoming wine with berry fruit and framed by occasionally pronounced but not overpowering tannins. Dolcetto is used to produce a red wine of generous berry fruit, hints of flowers like violets, an occasional whisper of savoriness, and enough tannin to balance richer foods but not so much weight that it overwhelms lighter ones.

In general Dolcetto is less fussy on aging and drinking it young allows you to enjoy the lighter fruit elements.

Make no mistake you should try this and conveniently Dolcetto easily pairs with pizza, pasta with tomato sauce or cream sauce or mushrooms. Dolcetto shines with its flavors and aromas of brambly berries and cherries. There is often a seam of spice. Take down the temperature slighting and Dolcetto becomes even fresher and more vibrant. It is lighter and perfect for summer dining.

viticulture area that has developed mainly around two major centres: Acqui Terme and Ovada you can find more information here Dolcetto & Acqui Terme

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Guila di Barolo the Queen & mother of Barolo we know today.

Marquise Giulia di Barolo (1785 – 1864), after marrying Tancredi Falletti di Barolo, emerged as a prominent figure in Turin. Known for hosting cultural salons at her palace, she cultivated relationships with nobility, politicians, and intellectuals. Beyond her social engagements, Giulia’s true passion lay in improving the lives of women and the underprivileged. She dedicated herself to aiding young mothers, orphans, and prostitutes.

A pioneer in social work, Giulia founded the Congregation of the Sisters of St. Anne. Her legacy includes a school for impoverished girls in Borgo Dora (1821), an institute for teenage mothers (1823), Italy’s first kindergarten for workers’ children at Palazzo Barolo (1825), and a monastery for underage prostitutes (1833).

Tragedy struck in 1835 when Tancredi succumbed to cholera, contracted while the couple cared for patients during an epidemic. Giulia then took over the administration of their estates. She continued her philanthropic efforts by inaugurating a hospital for disabled girls (1845), founding a vocational school for workers’ daughters (1847), and opening a school for weaving and embroidery (1857).

Around 1845, Giulia began focusing on the cultivation and vinification of Barolo wine, a favorite of King Carlo Alberto of Savoy. Her efforts in the vineyards and cellars of Langhe were backed by her noble French winemaking heritage, dating back two centuries to the Reims region, and later in the Loire’s castles of Brézé and Maulévrier.

Between 1850-1855, Giulia, alongside notable figures like Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, King Vittorio Emanuele II of Savoy, and oenologists Paolo Francesco di Staglieno and Louis Oudart, played a crucial role in enhancing the quality of Nebbiolo grapes and the Barolo wine. Her dedication led to significant improvements in both cultivation and vinification processes, establishing Barolo wine as a benchmark of excellence in oenology to this day.”

You can find out more about Nebbiolo wine Barolo here…Wine Nebbiolo The King of wines

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From Nebbiolo to Barolo The King of wines

The name ‘Nebbiolo’ derives its name from the Italian word for ‘fog’. This could be due to the grape’s foggy, bloom-covered appearance or, more evocatively, its late harvest in fog-wrapped vineyards – a theory I find particularly captivating.

Originating in pre-Roman times, Nebbiolo’s history is rooted in the Ligurian-Piedmontese area. The ancient writer Columella mentioned Nebbiolo in his first-century treatise ‘De de rustica’, highlighting its longstanding importance. In the Late Middle Ages, documents already praised Nebbiolo (referred to as nebiolius or nibiol) for its noble and long-lasting qualities.

Ampelographers suggest that Nebbiolo is indigenous to Piedmont, though DNA evidence hints at a possible origin in northern Lombardy’s Valtellina area. Its first official record dates back to the 13th century, tracing its lineage to ancient varieties like Vaccarino Nero and Lampia di San Costanzo.

The international spotlight turned to Nebbiolo and the Langhe region around 1844 when French oenologist Louis Oudart, at the behest of Count of Cavour and Juliette Colbert (Giulia di Barolo), transformed Nebbiolo grapes into the esteemed Barolo wine.

Marchesa Giulia di Barolo’s vision and innovation were pivotal in Nebbiolo’s development. Initially, Nebbiolo grapes were made into a partially fermented, sweet, sparkling wine. Giulia’s decision to build new cellars for large cask wine production transformed this sweet beverage into the full-bodied, noble Barolo we know today.

You can read more about this remarkable Queen of Barolo Guila di Barolo, Queen & mother of Barolo

The King of Wines, the Wine of Kings

In the 1800s, King Carlo Alberto and Italy’s first Prime Minister, Camillo Benso, Count of Cavour, favored Barolo at diplomatic events. Legend has it that King Carlo Alberto once jestingly asked Marchesa di Barolo when he could taste her acclaimed wine, to which she promptly sent 325 caskets to Turin – one for each day of the year minus the quarantine period.

Legend has it, the Marchesa was at court and King Carlo Alberto asked her jokingly: “Marchesa, people always speak highly of the wine from your holdings. When will you let us taste it?”

“Your Majesty, your wish will be granted soon” answered the Marchesa.

True to her word after many months finally stable and perfect to be transported for long distances without being altered, she did send 325 caskets of Barolo wine (shown above) that is one for each day of the year minute the quaratine period.

Barolo quickly became the wine of the Savoy court, of ambassadors and high-ranking officers of the army. After a short time, it also reached royal and noble banquets all over Europe.

For this reason it famously earned its epitaph “The King of Wines, the Wine of Kings”.

Meanwhile, other Nebbiolo regions like Monferrato and Roero, traditionally farmed by families, remained less renowned slipping into the shadows, becoming a wine made by simple farming families, no more prized than their peaches or grain.

Where can I find Nebbiolo?

Nebbiolo is synonymous with Piedmont. In the Langhe, especially around Barolo and Barbaresco, it’s used to craft iconic wines like Barolo DOCG and Barbaresco DOCG. In the Roero area, along the Tanaro river, you’ll find Roero DOCG with at least 95% Nebbiolo grapes. Further north, in Novara and Vercelli, Nebbiolo is blended with Vespolina grapes for Gattinara and Ghemme wines.

While top-tier Barolo and Barbaresco can be pricey (aging enhances their drinkability), more accessible blends with Barbera are available. Nebbiolo wines are renowned for their complex flavors – think violets, wild herbs, cherries, raspberries, and truffles.

Moving north, Nebbiolo is grown with excellent results even between Novara and Vercelli: here the DOCG Gattinara and Ghemme wines are born, where Nebbiolo is usually used for niche productions blended with Vespolina grapes.

While top-tier Barolo and Barbaresco can be pricey (aging enhances their drinkability), more accessible blends with Barbera are available. Nebbiolo wines are renowned for their complex flavors – think violets, wild herbs, cherries, raspberries, and truffles.

Nebbiolo wines are known for their complex flavors and aromas. They have a brick-orange hue at the rim of the glass and mature to reveal other aromas and flavors such as violets, wild herbs, cherries, raspberries, truffles, tobacco, and prunes 21.

For those interested in exploring Nebbiolo wines, Piedmont is the place to be. Here, the wines are vibrant, with tart blackberry notes and bright acidity. We recommend visiting Barolo and exploring its historic cellars. You can book a visit or a tasting, starting at €35 per person, at the Marchesi Di Barolo estate.”